Tseries FAQ

(formerly asked questions) Version 1.0-a, September 2002

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These data is mainly collected from the MG's lists:

mgs@autox.team.net & mg-t@autox.team.net

If you find any faults, please inform me, and I'll correct them. Please forward all additional info you want to share to : roozemond@gmx.net

For questions on TD's please use the list: mg-t@autox.team.net

This FAQ can also be found on-line in PDF and HTML at (long and large files!) : see below)

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WWW Links:

www.mgcars.org.uk/ (all MG's-very good. incl a BBS)

www.mgcars.org.uk/mgtd/ -(The Original MGTD Midget, lots of info, getting better everytime. You should read it!)

www.team.net/sol/ -(brit stuff, good, hosts the list where most of this info came from, Thus very important, also has search engine)

mg-tabc.org (T-abcs forever)

 

Searchable web-links; the list archives in searchable form on a web site at www.team.net/archive/mg-t

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NOTE:

These data is "collective net wisdom" and should be handled with care, thus :

NO commercial use is permitted without the written permission of the subsequent author(s).

NO garanties given on all answers. So use with care.

On given answers, pricing and all the rest: YMMV

This FAQ mainly caters for TD series cars ( as I collected it for my own restauration proces, a 53 TD), but quite a lot TF problems and some TC questions are answered here also. Collected by Danko Roozemond. e-mail : roozemond@gmx.net

 

Safety Fast

p.s. If you find this info usefull, you may want to help Mark Bradakis from "Fat change garage". He is the one who maintaines these lists. More info via mjb@autox.team.net or (paypal) via http://www.team.net/posting.html

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The FAQ can also be found on-line as PDF or zipped html/pdf at (long and large file! ca 1.2 MB, slow server)

HTML version of this FAQ

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Please download the file for off-line use.

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INDEX:

Intro *

T Series Books *

MG Flat rate manual *

MG TD Restoration Costs *

Purchase Inspection Help Needed *

Motor *

Motor: rebuilding *

52TD Cyl Head stuck *

Storing engine & tranny *

Head stud removal *

Mounting engine on stand *

Pulling MG engine *

XPAG Question, rebuild *

Changing a piston on a TD question *

MG Cam *

XPAG Camshafts *

TD Cam *

Tappet clearances and identifying the cam *

Advantage of late cam over early cam? *

TD Engine, timing *

Crankshaft Balancing *

Head Gasket Orientation *

TD Manifold Gasket Question *

Silicon Gaskets *

TD oil pressure (1) *

TD oil pressure (2) *

TD -- The Search for Oil Pressure *

TD's leak oil? *

Rear and Front main oil seals *

XPAG Front seal *

Oil leaks via the back plate *

XPAG Rear crankshaft oilseal. *

Rear seal *

Rear and Front main oil seals *

TD Tappets. *

Valve clearance on TD *

TD Valve Gap Lore *

Stuck Valve on TD *

TF mystery, valve seats *

52 MGTD Valve Guides *

Sticky Valve? *

TD Rocker arm questions *

XPAG Con Rod Torque *

Torque setting *

Bearings don't fit, now what? *

45mm Core Plugs *

XPAG rod journals. *

XPAG Rocker bushes *

Breather Hole *

Rebuilding TD water pumps: *

TD Flywheel *

Motor: After rebuild *

Starting after a rebuild *

Priming the oil pump *

XPAG Oil Pump Prime Question *

Cold Valve Clearance *

Breaking In a TD Engine *

Why do Valves like Marvel Mystery Oil so much? *

Motor: Filter-air/oil *

K&N filter for TD *

Oil Filters for XPAG - XPEG Engines *

TF oil filter *

Spin on oil filter conversion *

Why do two seals come with the filter? *

What's in the Canister in the Oil Pan? *

TC Oil Coolers *

Oil cooler for a MG TF *

TD Oil Drain Plug removal *

TD drain tap on block *

Oil feed pipe *

TD oil line *

Motor: starting *

TD won't start *

Starting with the hand crank *

Starting a T-series with the crank. *

TD starting handle crank nut loose... *

Motor: running / problem solving *

TD idle speed *

Mixture problem *

Slow oil pressure at start *

High oil presure *

Motor: Misc. *

Morris and B.M.C. engine codes *

TD engine stabilizer *

XPAG sitting not straight *

Fan blades *

TD Tach Adjustment *

Oil in distributor cap *

TD exhaust manifold/pipe gasket? *

Lower breather pipe bracket *

TC intake manifold *

TD exhaust *

Transmission / axle *

Transmission *

Gear oil *

What oil to use in my gearbox *

Eliminating TD shifter rattle *

TD Transmission Rattle *

TD gearbox tunnel cover *

MG TD Tranny Rebuild - In over my head? *

MG TD Gearbox : end float for the lay gear? *

TD Gear Box torque *

Troubleshooting TD Gearbox? *

Gear box "pop" out *

TD transmission worn remote control cover *

TD Gearbox gasket *

Support bracket for the transmission *

MGTF rear transmission mount *

TD Gear Box Insulation *

TD Transmission Problems *

TD/TF transmission *

Transmission / axle: gear ratio *

TC rear axle gearing *

TD Gear Ratio *

TD/TF transmission with a better (close) ratio *

TF axle ratio *

Changing Rear End Ratio in a TD *

Gear/tranny changes *

TD/TF ring and pinion gears *

TD real axle grear ratio *

TD RPM's *

TC transmission & rear axle ratio *

Rear axle *

TD differential oil *

MG TD -- rear axle seals *

TD rear axle seals are leaking *

TD Rear Axle Oil Seal Question *

Rear Axle Oil Seal Replacement on TD *

Broken TD half shaft *

Broken half-shaft *

Old vs New Rear Half Axles *

T series worn axle splines *

TF Rear Axle *

Axle Housing *

Rear Axle Nut *

Transmission / axle: vibrations *

TD vibration *

Shaking TD *

My TD has the Shakes *

Clutch *

Late TD Clutch replacement *

TD Clutch Question *

TD Clutch Slipping *

TD clutch *

Fierce TD clutch *

TD clutch adjustment *

TD clutch rod *

TD Clutch Linkage *

TD Clutch Linkage *

Clutch Roller Bearings *

Spigot bushing driver *

Torque for pressure plate bolts *

Cluch, restoration *

Steering / Shocks *

Steering box ++ *

Steering rack lubrication on TD *

Steering Rack Lubrication *

Steering Assembly- how much oil *

TD steering box Lubrication *

TC steering box *

Steering pinion shaft seal *

Steering shaft bearing. (T series) *

TD steering column bushing *

TD steering rack clunk *

TD Steering problem solved *

TD Steering Wheel Romoval *

TD steering wheel removal (2) *

Wheels / tires *

Steering wheel shimmy *

Wheel Wobble TC - 19" wheels *

Front wheel shimmy - MG TD *

Tires for TD? *

Right size tires for TD and TF *

Tire Pressure for TD *

Tubeless tires on TD wheels? *

Wire wheels on a MG-TD? *

MG TD Wheel Studs *

Front end *

TD front end noise *

TD Front Wheel Bearings *

Packing front bearings, revisited *

Front Hub Grease Cap *

Front bearings *

MG TD -- front end alignment *

TC Suspension rebuild questions *

Removing front suspension. *

King/Swivel pins *

King pin threads *

Swivel pin replacement *

King Pins *

TD suspension bushing reaming, now on line *

Right & left hand threads *

Front coil spring *

Torquing bolts (TD Front Suspension) *

MG TD/TF Anti-roll bar *

Front Wheel Hubs *

Shocks *

Remove the shocks: *

MG TD Shock Absorbers. *

TD Shocks *

Armstrong shock replacement *

Rear shocks mounting *

TD shocks *

TD front damper *

Shock Fluid *

TD rear shocks *

TC Shock Bushings *

Rear end *

TD Rear Springs *

TD Rear shock mounting *

Pedal shafts *

Clutch Pedal Shaft on TD-TF *

T & YA/YB pedal Lubrication *

Pedal shaft *

Grease Nipple Identification / lube points the DPO did notlube *

Sloppy pedals *

TD grease fitting on brake/clutch shaft *

Braking *

Brake cylinders *

Wheel and Master Cylinders *

A master cylinder tip *

MG-TD Wheel Cylinders *

Frozen MGTD or any brake cylinders *

'Frozen' brake cylinders *

Frozen TD Brakes *

Brake drums *

Where can I get a Brake Drum puller? *

Removing Front Wheel Hub *

TF front drum *

Removing TF Brake Drums *

Pulling TD Brake Drums *

Brake drum *

Brakes: Misc *

TD-TF brake and fuel line clips *

Lubricating TD handbrake *

TD Hand Brake *

TD Brake lines *

Thickness of brake shoes *

Brake problem, locking up *

Grabbing brakes *

TF Brakes *

TD Brakes *

Fuel *

Fuel, carb *

TD carb overflows *

SU CARBS *

Carb. problem *

Carb Jet Seals *

MGTD trottle return spring *

TD float setting *

Float bowl *

TD Carburetor Leak *

TD hesitation *

TD's with a cold idle mechanism? *

Fuel, vapor lock *

Vapor lock (1) *

TD vapor lock (2) *

TF Vapor Lock *

Fuel Vaporization? (MG TD) food for thought *

Fuel, gas tank ++ *

TD Fuel Warning Lamp *

Fuel leak on MGTD *

TD Fuel Sender *

Sending Unit *

TD gas tank filter *

Gastank gum *

TD Fuel Tank - internal rust *

TD gas cap cork seal *

TD Gas Cap Seal *

TD Fuel Cap *

Fuel, misc. *

'52 TD fuel consumption *

TD running rich *

TD Gas Cap Seal, easy repair? *

SU Fuel Pump *

Flooding TD fuel pump *

Electrics *

Electrics, ignition *

T & Y Type spark plugs *

TD Sparkplugs (2) *

TD Spark Plugs, 1/2 or 3/4 inch? *

Spark plugs (2) *

TD spark tuning *

TD firing order *

TD Coil *

TD coil installation. *

TD Coil / faulty *

TF coil *

Distributor and Tuning guff *

Points Gap and Timing *

MG distributors *

Distributor TD *

TD distributor cap *

Part numbers for points, condenser and coil (napa) *

TD points *

No Spark - What is going on?? *

TD ignition situation problem / rough running *

Electrics, electronic ignition *

Petronix ignition *

Electronic Ignition for the TD *

How to set timing on a TD with an Ignitor *

Electronic ignition for MG TD *

Points/electronic ign. *

Electronic Ignition *

Electrics, starter, generator & battery *

TD Starter *

TD starter / Testing *

TD Starter *

TD generator ID-Plate *

TD Generator Output Question *

Charge current *

MG TD Voltage Regulator :cooking Battery? *

TD Voltage Regulator *

Voltage Regulator *

TD Voltage Regulator Setting *

Trials with a rheostat temporarily lashed in seem to be a good idea. *

Amp gauge *

Ammeter *

MGTD Battery Specifications *

Electrics, wiring, etc *

TD license plate lamp wiring question *

Electrical Harness Help with '51 TD *

Wiring colors *

Electrics, polarity *

Positive ground? *

Positive Ground to Negative Ground on MGA *

Reversing polarity *

Electrics, lights *

Halogen Bulbs *

Fuses for headlights *

Fusing *

Fuses *

Aiming headlights *

TD brake lights *

TD Brake Lights Out! *

Electrics, misc *

52 MGTD extra condenser *

Wipers on 52 TD *

TD Wiper *

TD Windshield Wiper Motor getting hot *

Help With TD Wiper Motor *

TD Clock power? *

TD clock resto *

TD Gauges restoration *

Lucas Horns *

Lucas striker! *

Flasher Location *

Radios *

Cooling / heating / overheating *

MGTD Radiator *

TD Radiator Shell Question *

TD Radiator Installation *

TD Water Temp *

Moss Thermostat & Housing *

Radiator mounting bracket holes *

TD Radiator Support *

Water Pump Repair *

Thermostat *

TD radiator *

Thermostat TD *

Blocking the Bypass *

Thermostat Redux *

Cooling Leak Mystery *

Where to link up a heater? *

TD overheating *

Cool Cars *

TD vapor lock *

Overheating TF *

Overheating TF (2) *

How hot is too hot? *

Body work *

Body work, tub *

TD body removal *

TD TUB *

TF Body *

TD Floorboard Screws *

Running board *

TD Door Hinges-(1) *

TD Door Hinges-(2) *

TD door fit *

Door Alignment *

Refubishing TD door hinges *

TD Door Fitting *

Door latches *

Striker plate and wedge *

Door Strikers *

T series bonnet help *

FAQ Page for Metalwork, Paint, Prep & Woodwork *

Body work, colours & chrome *

Paint *

Lacquer Paint source? *

Paint for TC wheels *

Colour of radiator slats on TD *

XPAG Distributor (colour) *

Chroming TD Radiator Shell *

Chrome Repair Question *

TD bolt color *

MGTC / Color of firewall *

Painting TD gas tank end panels *

TD cluster panel/oil filter colour *

Color Scheme *

TD Exhaust Manifold Paint *

Body work, misc *

Fender bolts *

TD plug holder *

Side Curtain Mouldings *

TD Gas Tank romoval *

Piping (1) *

Piping (2) *

Piping (3) *

TC-TD Dash *

TD Instrument panel *

TF Dash rubber installation *

TD Dash / filling smaller holes *

TD Foot Rest Questions *

Trunk Rack *

TD hardtop *

TD Tops *

Two or three bow top? *

Mounting lap straps in the TD *

Misc *

Misc, bolts *

Torque Settings *

Helicoil Kit *

Carb Float bowl banjo bolt hole repair-helicoil *

NUTS and bolds *

Headlight nuts, Large size nuts , fine threads...?? *

Bolts *

Stripped bolt holes *

Misc, Lubrication *

T Series Lubrication *

Misc, gauges *

TD Speedo Problem *

TD water temp/level *

TD Gauges, where's the red line? *

Speedometer Rebuild Cost *

TD Tachometer Gearbox *

Misc, everything else..... *

TD "shakes" when "backing up". *

TD looses power at speed *

Noise from MGTD when hitting dip in road. *

Vibration Cause? *

A TD owner need some help, hesitation *

 

Intro

 

T Series Books

The MG T Series Restoration Guide by Malcolm Green is interesting in that it has a number of excellent diagrams which I have found useful in determining how lines and wires are routed. It is also very good on interiors.

The Complete M.G. TD Restoration Manual By Horst Schach is new. I have a copy and it seems to cover areas that are not covered in other books. A very worthwile book.I was somewhat surprised to find absolutely nothing about carburetors, generator, starter, fuel pump, etc. Therefore, I think the use of the word "complete" is a bit strong. I guess that you are supposed to get this info somewhere else. However, it appears to be the best I've seen on body restoration.

I found the MG midget TD/TF Factory Workshop to be fairly good, but has minor faults such as poor diagrams of the brake system. The MG Midget Series TD and TF Workshop Manual is, in my opinion, much better than those that cover all of the T's because it is easier to sort out the information pertinent to the TD.

The T Type Restoration Handbook by Knudson is excellent for the reprints of articles from the magazine of the New England T-Series Reg. A tremendous font of all sorts of good facts is "The T Series Handbook" put out by the New England 'T' Register. I've recently seen pictures of it in catalogs with a new cover since the one I have which came out in 1986. I don't know if there are changes in the text also.

In general, each book has strengths in different areas with Schlack being very strong in the engine rebuild and tub restoration.

There is one book that you did not mention. The University Motors LTD. Technical Booklet. This is put out by John Twist at University Motors in Ada, Michigan. He teaches a series of classes on MGs during the winter and uses this as a manual. I have had the joy of attending a number of his classes - B Series restoration, Front end rebuild, Transmission Rebuild, Interiors. He also does classes on carb. rebuilds, T Series restoration and engine rebuild. My XPEG engine was rebuild this winter in this course. The Tech Book covers all of the post war models and includes articles that John has written for various magazines such as MG Mag. The cost is about $15 - $18 and is well worth the cost.

Another good source of information are the catalogs from Moss Motors and Abingdon Spares. _Almost_ every part is illustrated in these catalogs. Join the NEMGTregister so you can get the Sacred Octagon 2. get the NEMGTR publication the"T Series Handbook" Also get the factory workshop manual

 

MG Flat rate manual

BAP published some flat rate info in its 1956 catalog. Here's some useful stuff for you for the TC & TD.

hours cost $

Engine overhaul 13.0 h

Rebore @ $4 16.00

Gasket set 1 4.70

Gasket set 2 2.60

Piston, ea 6.85

Ring set ea 6.15

Valve spring set 4.70

Exh valve, ea 1.75

Intake valve, ea 1.36

Conrod Brg set 5.36

Main Brg set 8.54

Exh guide, ea .70

In guide, ea .66

Clutch overhaul 8.0

Clutch unit, exchange 23.75

TD parts may have been bargains then; they're twice the price of MGB parts today.

MG TD Restoration Costs

- frame, body, body wood, all look good, no work

Are you sure? Check wood around the sills in particular. New body tub is $4,000+, although yours can probably be repaired for much less, if necessary. wood sills may or maynot be good..there are products on the market to correct punky wood, but if you are paticular you will replace..any wood and panel work is difficult. I recently restored, Frame up, a 53 TD. Can be fun if treated that way or it may just drive you crazy. Shop the internet for stuff you need. Make a list and buy from moss when they have their sales..look for the items you need on sale.

brakes

Minimum $350 to sleeve all brake slave and master cylinders. $150 for new brake lines. About $125 to $160 for shoes. About $50 for rebuild kits. I had to pay $100 to have the drums turned at a machine shop since no one had a brake lathe to fit. That's a total of $775 just for parts and stuff I just couldn't do myself. New front slave cylinders are made of unobtainium. Brakes are the most inportant of all. You need to stop when you need to stop. Can really hurt if you do not. Do not skip here. New lines, resleeve, etc.

- clutch

Not too expensive if you pull the engine and install yourself. About $200 for parts. More to turn the flywheel or replace the ring gear, if needed. Correct.

- fuel system, lines and carb rebuild

Most firms charge around $300 to rebuild the carbs, much cheaper if you do it yourself. Fuel pumps are around $90. Correct but you can do it yourself. Rebuild kits are relativly inexpensive..buy the video.

- wire wheels, trued, beaded and painted, powder coat

Powder coating costs about $40 to $50 a wheel, but then you don't have to bead and paint them. How did you end up with wires on a '52? They aren't original, if you are concerned with that. Bead and repaint!

- paint, few minor dents, no rust...

Sounds like the whole thing needs to be stripped first. Probably several hundred $$ or so to strip, depending upon your method. Cheapest would be to do it yourself with several cans of stripper. Messy job. Easier to have it plastic media blasted, which is expensive, but leaves a great surface for the paint. DO NOT SANDBLAST IT! Sandblasting is way too abrasive and will warp the panels. A _good_ paint job will be a couple thousand dollars. There are places that you can take the tub, fenders , etc to and have them dipped. Works great.

- interior

$2,000? Just a guess, I haven't got this far, yet. That's just for the upholstery and panels, no labor.Don not think it will cost that much if you shop and buy when on sale, but not cheap. - chrome, ouch $$$, canada or mexico?

Depends on the quality. You can generally buy repro bumpers for less than you can have the originals rechromed, but the finish doesn't last long on the repros. Front grill surround I think is $200 to $300 depending upon damage and the quality of the result you want.True! Front Radiator shell was recromed for only $250, but it is perfect now.

This is about the order I plan to progress in. Any info will be greatly appreciated. I don't want to get in over my finacial head...,

What about a new top and side curtain covers ($1,000 from Moss)? Are you going to take it off the frame and have the frame sandblasted, etc. What about suspension parts? New front bushings, springs, shocks runs about $400+ for parts, no labor. Rear springs and shocks would be more. How is the engine? A rebuild could easily cost $2,000+. The transmission? Parts are $500 minimum for a tranny rebuild.

 

Purchase Inspection Help Needed

I'm considering joining the ranks of MGTD owners and have found a likely candidate to buy. Being a 52 year old car it does have a few flaws but nothing that's killed the purchase yet. I do have a couple of questions I wonder if experienced owners can answer though.

The engine breather has noticeable smoke coming out of it. I believe this is normal, but just how much is normal and under what conditions?

I did not pull the spark plugs on the initial look (it was getting dark) but want to go back and do that. How should they look on a properly working engine?

There are some questions about the brakes. The owner says they were repaired about 3 years ago (about 300 running miles, since the car has not been used much recently). One drum was replaced and the brake cylinder redone. There is no apparent problem when running, but when the brakes are applied the car pulls to the right a bit. He explains that the pad adjustments are done in steps and unless pad wear is exactly the same on both sides you will always get some pull to one side or the other. True? If not true, how hard to fix?

There's also a bit of a rattle which appears to come from the right rear wheel area. Any ideas what might be loose back there (brake pad, ...?) and how much of a problem it's likely to be.

The gas tank leaks. Not fast enough that we could see it actually drip, but there is paint damage from it. The FAQ has a pretty good discussion on this but is a couple of years old. Is there any new knowledge about this sort of problem?

He has a spin on oil filter adapter that apparently does not work well. He's had it blow the filter seal twice right after startup due, he says, to high pressure. By letting the car warm up (and thus the oil warm, thin, and max. pressure go down) he says there are no problems. He suggests I switch to the other type of filter mod (the one with replaceable filter elements) which is supposed to work properly. This is discussed in the FAQ too so making the change does not seem to be a problem, but is there any new knowledge on this topic?

I'm not technically ept, but I do know (from costly personal experience) that you should take a really knowledgeable T-series person with you to inspect this vehicle. The car should go up on a hoist for a proper inspection. I know enough to suspect you may be buying a peck of trouble.

Tell people where you are - you will probably get suggestions as to specific people who can inspect the car for you. It's worth paying for this service!

There's nothing inherently wrong with TDs in general. Properly maintained they are very reliable. However when buying one you have 50 years and who knows how many Dumb Previous Owners (DPOs) working against you, plus a current owner (possibly a DPO) who may have a grossly exaggerated perception of the car's condition and of its value. Unless you have tons of money to throw around, it pays to be careful. If you can find an expert to take with you, do so.

Smoke from the breather should not be considered "normal". This is likely a symptom of loose rings. It results from blow-by. A wisp now and then is livable, but a steady stream would indicate you are on the way to needing some engine work.

Noticeable smoke coming out of the breather isn't normal or acceptable. If it has been years since the engine was last run, could be the rings are stuck and can be freed up. If that's not it, the smoke indicates extreme engine wear or damage (probably rings and/or cylinder bores), or else an engine that has been rebuilt very sloppily.

The ideal is a dry plug with a tan color. Whitish color indicates too lean a mixture. Black sooty (dry) plugs indicate too rich a mixture. Black and wet oily plugs are indicative of some of the same troubles as above. Most TDs run on the rich side, so expect to see black dry plugs.

Tan or brown, and dry. If black and dry, the mixture is rich. If white and dry, the mixture is lean. If black and oily, it's a sign that the rings and/or valve guides are shot.

Not true. First standard TDs don't use brake pads, they use shoes as they are drum brakes. The adjustment is a screw reachable from the outside, so there's no reason not to adjust them properly. If the car has been off the road for a few years, it's likely that the brakes have started to get sticky due to corrosion inside the wheel cylinders. Not a difficult job, but if simple adjustments don't take care of the problem, I would then consider a tear down to check the reason for uneven braking. It may be as simple as oily brake linings, or a complex as rebuilding cylinders. In any case, a brake fluid change would be strongly encouraged.

Not true. It would be true if the car had purely mechanical brakes that were misadjusted, but it isn't true with hydraulic brakes. The adjustment controls the at-rest gap between the brake shoes and the brake drum. As long as that is the same on both wheels, and as long as the rest of the brake system is in good condition, the brakes won't pull to one side.

Pulling to one side means the brake on that side (probably front) is braking more than the one on the other side. Look for wheel cylinder problems, or problems with the brake shoe mounting, or possibly oil on the shoes on the side that is not pulling.

Hard to say what that is. Could be as simple as a stone inside the hub cap, or something loose in the brake assembly. Pull the wheel and drum and investigate.

Not unusual for a car that has been stored for a while - especially if the tank wasn't stored full and rust has set in. Check the sediment filter in the fuel pump and in the carb float bowls. If there is rust present, you may need to seal the tank.

Where is it leaking? If there is a rust pin hole in the tank, aircraft "slushing compound" may stop the leak. If one of the soldered seams is coming apart, you'll need major tank repairs. If the fuel level indicator sending unit leaks where it mounts to the tank, or if its top cover leaks, then new gaskets and gasket compound will stop the leak unless the parts are badly distored from overtightening.

I agree to get a replacement filter body with a screw-on filter. Bob Grunau who monitors this list manufactures these. Well worth the price.

There's nothing inherently bad about a spin-on filter conversion, but there have been some very poorly made adapters sold over the years. How much oil pressure registers on the gauge at cold startup? I can't imagine it's high enough to blow out the filter gasket unless the filter wasn't installed correctly or the gasket surface of the spin-on adapter isn't machined accurately. Switching back to the original filter cannister is easy enough, but spin-on filters are easier to get and easier to install. If you want to stay with a spin-on filter, get an adapter from Bob Grunau. His are excellent. In any case, I wouldn't consider this a deal breaker unless the oil pressure really is incredibly high. That would indicate a problem with the oil pump relief valve or something elsewhere in the lubrication system.

These cars are not really a peck of trouble at all. They are just somewhat behind state of the art 1952 cars. Time has probably caused less harm to them than to most vehicles of the same age. Their maintenance, care and feeding are things that most owners can accomplish at home, with a fairly basic toolkit. Cars wore faster then. Engine rebuilds at 60,000 miles were common. Look at old magazines such as Life and you will find adverts for Piston Rings. Piston Rings!! When was the last time you saw an advert for them? Just today, a lister mentioned oiling the hinges on the cars. MG suggested that in the owner handbook. Does Honda? Who cares anyway--who would want one of them in 52 years? Aside from the question of engine blow-by, which really does need to be answered to your satisfaction, the other issues are minor. You can rebuild the entire brake system of the TD for a few hundred bucks. Try that on a modern car. Gas tank leaks are fixable, or you can have someone make a new tank. 50 years before a leak isn't bad, really. The 50 year old analogue, spring wound clock probably needs only a cleaning and oiling to get it ticking accurately once more. Shock absorbers (dampers) can be sent out for rebuilding for less than the cost of a couple of sets of modern tube shocks that wear out. That's not to say that they do not have problems that modern vehicles do not. One problem is that the original carpets were wool, so moths can eat them. But don't be discouraged by the comments that I and others have made. A solid TD is a solid automobile.

part 2:

I re-visited the potential purchase car today. Other than the engine condition I'm satisfied on the other issues brought up previously. Here's what I learned about the engine today:

There is smoke coming from the breather pretty much at all times--cold, hot, whatever. The only time it really stopped was when we removed the oil filler cap on the very top of the engine and then we saw smoke coming from there instead.

We did compressions checks both cold and hot. Here are the results for each of the four cylinders:

Cold: 115, 114, 125, 110 Hot: 105, 110, 120, 105

This gave us a chance to examine the spark plugs. All were black and somewhat oily.

I also watched the oil pressure more closely this time. Immediately after startup it was around 80. After the car warmed up and we drove it it was around 50, varying with engine RPM as expected. After finishing driving with the car at idle it was down to about 20.

After the car was warmed up the exhaust was fairly clear. However, if the engine was rev'ed at the point where it was released back to idle there would be a puff of exhaust smoke.

Some final notes: over the past 20 years the car has been used very little, averaging less than 100 miles per year. The engine starts right up, idles smoothly and seems to have plenty of power while driving.

Although other indications seem good, I assume that the smoke does indicate a problem. But, how bad? Something that has to be rebuilt right away? Good enough to drive for a few thousand miles and then requiring some work? Or...? Any feedback is appreciated.

A useful test is to put a small amount (about a teaspoon full) of engine oil down each plug hole and then measure compressions. The oil temporarily seals worn bores, so if the compressions go up a lot you can blame the bores. On the other hand if the compressions are substantially unchanged, then any loss is due to valve leakage.

From what you say I would guess the engine is fairly worn, but would run OK for a while. The good side is that when you have rebuilt the engine you will #know# and have confidence in what has been done, rather than wondering what a DPO has committed out of your sight.

I just got back to Salt Lake City from GoF West in Durango, Colorado.I drove a 53ish TD project car that had not been driven over a couple hundred miles in the last 25 years. It smoked a little and consumed a half quart of oil in the first 250 miles of 100-plus degree mountain desert heat. The sludge liquified, the gummy rings expanded and the power improved. We never needed the tow bar that came with the car. It used no additional oil and I don't think it is smoking any more. The amount of blow-by from the oil cap and road tube is less than when I started the 1000 mile exercise. Maybe I was just lucky, but I have a feeling from your description the potential purchase car might just need to be driven, tuned up and given a few oil changes. The puff of smoke when you let off the gas may be slightly worn valve guides. Chances are the guides could be done when you went through the head to upgrade valves and seats for unleaded gas sometime in the next few years.

 

 

Motor

 

Motor: rebuilding

 

52TD Cyl Head stuck

Working on my 52 TD and tried to get the cylinder head off today and had zero luck. All the bolts are removed per visual inspection and workshop manual (The rear head cover plate is still on, but I don't think that would impede the release of the head). According to the workshop manual you should loosen it up with, er, purcussive pursuasion (hit it with a hammer - with a block of wood between to soften the blow) but this did nada to it. I tried lifting it from the visible edges of the casting but to no avail (engine is still mounted in the car, and we actually were lifting the car up instead of breaking it loose).

I'm assuming that its just that the gasket has turned to glue after sitting for 30 years. Any thoughts? Bigger hammer? Bolts I might have missed that need to be removed?

The TD head is held on by 10 nuts on ten studs. To remove the head, you have to undo these nuts, disconnect the manifolds and the upper hose. You must also undo the three hollow bolts that hold the side cover on and pry it away from the head as this cover's gasket is pressed against the lower edge of the head. It's not essential to remove the rocker assembly but, if you don't, then the pushrods will come up with the head and make it more awkward to handle.

If you've done all those things and the head still doesn't budge, then the culprit is possibly corrosion between the studs and the holes in the head. Spray liberal quantities of something like PB Blaster down the stud holes and let it sit for a while, then try again. If this doesn't work, use a stud extractor (or double-nut the studs) and remove as many of them as you can. This allows you to wriggle the head around more, breaking any residual seal with the head gasket. If all the studs come out, you can also use "percussive persuasion" to knock the head sideways to get it off the block............

Had a similar problem with my 77 Midget. What I did was spray PB Blaster down the studs for several day, then removed all of the studs. I tried moving the piston to the bottom of the stoke and then filling the cylinder with some soft, clean, cotton rope. Then I rolled the car to bring the the piston up. This should be done when the values are shut, i.e. the compression stroke. In my case this failed, but others have had success. I then made sure that there was nothing holding the head on, no studs, no manifolds, etc. I then put in a couple of bolts into the water pump holes (on the front of the 1500 cc head) and using a 2x4, I jacked the front of the car up by the bolts in the front of the head. I only jacked the front wheels off the ground about 1 inch. After 2 days the head came loose.. YMMV. Good luck, but my head was stuck tight.

If this doesn't work, use a stud extractor (or double-nut the studs) and remove as many of them as you can. This allows you to wriggle the head around more, breaking any residual seal with the head gasket. If all the studs come out, you can also use "percussive persuasion" to knock the head sideways to get it off the block............

If all else fails, you can also put the spark plugs back in and hit the starter - the compression with all the valves closed may move the head, but try penetrating oil first.

Worst case of stuck head I ever had was a Triumph Mayflower, which had an aluminum flat head that corroded to the steel studs. The only way to get it apart was to make up a hollow saw that went over each stud and, used in a drill, cut away a thin layer of aluminum around each stud. Took forever!

One solution I have heard described is to put the spark plugs back in and crank the engine, so that compression blows the head loose. I think you would probably want to replace a few of the bolts loosely to keep it from coming clean off. If your car is an old non-runner and incapable of cranking this may not be helpful, I'm afraid.

 

Storing engine & tranny

Quick run down - my 52 TD was idle with fluids in it for about 30 years until I decided to try and rescue it. I've pulled the engine and have removed the cyl. head and pan. The unfortunate realization is that the pistons are rusted into the block solid. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to remove them? I've tried tapping, pounding, and pursuading to no avail. Two pistons are at TDC (or only a couple of degrees off that) and teh other two are (obviously I guess) at or near BDC. Due to rust on the pistons and the connecting rods they have to be replaced, so worst comes to worst I can have the machine shop drill them out when I get the cyls. bored, but I would prefer to do it myself, both for personal edification and, er, financial reasons (grad students don't make much money, y'know...)

Recently there has been a good thread on storing engines and trannys - I guess I'm currently going through a bit of an object lesson as to what happens when the DPO DOESN'T do these things... ;)

Are you sure it is the pistons that are seized? I recently had a similar problem and it was the lifters seized not the pistons. The pistons have to be removed from underneath as the rods do fit thru the bores. It is a delicate procedure as you have to orient the crankshaft perfectly to allow room for rod/piston removal from underneath. I would use some potent penetrating liquid (PB Blaster) and float it on top of the pistons and also the lifters for a few days and then try again.

Changing the oil in the sump will get rid of acid-contaminated oil in there. Nasty oil in the sump is not much of a problem, but acid-contaminated oil resting on the bearing surfaces is. I rebuilt my TD engine because my father stored it for 10 years or so with dirty oil. The bearings look as though they had terminal smallpox. Now, the question is-how would you get clean oil into the bearings? I don't know exactly. Guess I would fill up the sump with clean oil and install a new filter, then crank the engine with starter until oil blew out the line to the gauge for a few seconds. Then, I'd dose the cylinders again and put the engine under a cover. You might want to crank to #1 cyl at TDC and remove the distributor to a safe, dry place. Some advocate spraying the clutch with WD40 to keep it from sticking. That may not make any real difference to you if you plan to replace it when the engine is rebuilt.

I have heard filling the cyls with diesel fuel and letting it sit for several days works very well to free seized engines.

 

Head stud removal

On Monday I removed the head and manifolds from my 52TD. The head had been on the engine since I put it together about eight years/7000 miles ago and I can't recall the last time (if ever) that I checked the torque of the head nuts. I was curious to see if any had loosened over time so I began a series of torque wrench tests starting at 35 ft-lbs and working up in 5 ft-lb increments to see when a nut might break loose. While testing at 60 ft-lbs I got a shocking surprise as stud #4 broke off right at the nut. At that point I dug out my beam wrench and just removed the nuts (most gave way at about 70 ft-lbs).

My concern, and the reason for this posting, is to ask if anyone has any suggestions for steps that I might take prior to attempting to remove the studs from the block. I'd hate to have one break off at the block level so as to have to be drilled out. I'll definitely be replacing the studs with new ones, no question about that.

I would start by soaking the thread area with penetrating oil, then since you are going to be replacing the studs anyway, give them a good hard wack straight down on the stud prior to atempting removal.

The former advice sits well with me, however, I'd add several things. The penetrant should be something like WD-40 or Liquid Wrench rather than a penetrating oil. The soaking and whacking should be done some time in advance of actually trying to move the stud, preferably overnight. When first attempting to move the stud, try rocking it (rotationally speaking) so that the stud turns back and forth, loosening and tightening back a little. The movement may be almost imperceptible at first, but be patient. This way you don't try to force the stud through loosened corrosion and have it gall the threads or break again. Use more penetrant. For tools, a large vice grip would be my choice if there is clearance enough.

A totally different approach for certain circumstances is to weld a hex head onto the top of the broken stud. Let it cool completely before rocking it back and forth as before.

Thanks for the clarification - on new or reusable studs, I would not use a vice grip, but Bud said his broke off. If there's enough thread left to double nut it, great. In my motorcycle experience another thought come to mind, and I don't know if this happens with TDs. Check the studs thoroughly for "necking down" if reusing studs. This indicates that the stud has stretched, causing the metal to become brittle, and it should be replaced. Anyone heard of this with MGs? Yes, it happens!

Thanks to all who offered suggestions. They're out. None broke. Gave 'em a squirt of Busty (works better than PB Blaster and smells a whole lot better), hit 'em on the end with a hammer, hooked up my stud remover and cranked 'em out.

 

Mounting engine on stand

Has anyone mounted a TD engine to one of those US style engine stands where the engine is bolted to the stand using the transmission mounting bolts holes? These bolts look a little small to support the weight of the engine. I would appreciate anyone's advise who has actually done this or has any other methods to recommend.

A friend of mine has an MG garage and uses one of thos engine holders that you described. He uses some hardened bolts that thread into the block bell housing area but I dont have the foggiest idea where he got them. Even with those bolts, I'd be a little squeamish about heavy torqueing on some of the main and rod bolts.

Per Horst Schach's book, I mounted my engine to the four tranny holes. I used four of the 8mm rocker bracket bolts. They were too short, so I hack sawed about 1/4" off each of the four stand 'spacers'. I have the entire engine on the stand now less the cyl head. I am able to turn engine 360 degress, however I should have greased the stand sleeve before mounting the engine.

My TD's engine came out a few weeks ago (perhaps you remember my call for help finding a crankshaft. I was able to bolt it up to the US style engine stand, though I was also worried about the ability of the bolts to take the load. More accurately, I was worried about breaking the flywheel housing part of the block casting, so I bolted it up gently, one turn at a time, until all the four bolts were equally snug, then lifted the assembly and poked the shaft of the holder into the stand. Horst Schach's (sp) book has a photo of a complete engine on the stand, so I guess it's OK.

I did this a little differently, but the result is the same. First, I bought 8x1 bolts of appropriate length at the local Pep Boys, making sure to get high strength (equivalent to Grade 8, but I forget the metric designation). Supposedly the standard metric threaded bolt will have slightly different thread sizes, but they work fine.

I then lifted the engine with my hoist to the right level. I bolted the stand to the engine, only putting weight on the stand and the bolts after everything was snugged up.

One minor modification I had to make to the engine stand was necessary in my case. Each mounting hole on the stand was really a tube of about 2" long. I guess that provides additional clearance to the back of the engine while on the stand. In my case, it was too annoying to have to find bolts long enough to go through the tube. So I shortened them up using a cut-off tool.

I was thinking about how you modified the engine stand. In my case, the bolts with the stand were long enough to permit the mounting tubes to be bolted to the stand, and the flat part of the little brackets to attach flat against the bell housing, thus providing some additional bearing and support surface for the weight of the engine.

I just bolt one of my spare bell housings to the engine stand using grade 5 bolts though the bell/tranny holes and the slots on the stand and without the adapter arms with the tubes.

 

Pulling MG engine

It is no big deal to pull the MG TD engine and reinstall it. I would suggest he pull the engine, do a complete rebuild. If he doesent I am sure he will be sorry !!!

I'm not really qualified to give you an estimate on shop time to pull the engine. Remember I'm just an amateur backyard mechanic that has owned TD"S since 1960 and has done a couple of engine rebuilds in my garage using a "comealong" hooked to a ceiling beam to pull the engine.

I can't imagine pulling the engine out the bottom !!!!. I would think it would be a hell of a job to get it out that way.

The biggest part of the job to pull the engine is stripping off all of the stuff like the starter, generator, carbs, exhaust, wiring, etc. You pull the radiator off, pull the steering column out. Pull the floorboards out of the car, disconnect the gear box, and then pull the engine and gearbox up and forward.

 

XPAG Question, rebuild

Is this engine a hard one to rebuild?

No, it is pretty bomb proof, and is a typical British 1930's designed OHV unit, based on the 1140cc Morris Ten sedan of 1938. Parts can be had from Moss in the USA, or NTG in the UK on < NTG200@aol.com >. You really need a workshop manual, the only people whom I know sell them in the UK 'Octagon Car Club' UK 01785 251014 fax 248386.

I think this engine might have seen some wear. The oil pressure is around 30-35 and if I run the engine at a higher rpm (sitting in the garage) and then let it idle, it'll drop down to around 20. I don't know what that really tells me tho', since I don't know what it's supposed to be.

A) Oil pressure on a HOT engine should be 50psi at idle,( book actually says 70 to 40 psi.) There are many reasons why it can be low, and it is worth checking these out. 1) The oil pressure relief ball has grooves in it, and is not seating correctly. This lives under the big brass nut under the oil pump. It is just a big ball bearing, with a spring seating it. If it has ANY marks or grooves, fit a new ball, and seat it by tapping it firmly into the pump. 2) Excessive end-float in the gears inside the oil pump, letting oil go back to the inlet. The end cap is held on with 8 bolts, and there should only be 0.04mm end float. Worn gears themselves can cause loss of pressure as well. 3) Worn bearings in the engine, which yours sounds as if it has, hence the 20psi oil pressure. The crankshaft needs measuring to see if it needs re-grinding, or just new shell bearings fitting. If you can see the copper undercoat in the shell bearings faces, expect the worst! The oil pump is one of the best around, it will supply good pressure long after the bearings are worn....it is a common trick to put washers under the oil pressure relief valve above to 'boost' the running pressure!!! I hooked the oil pressure sensor up to the banjo fitting at the base of the head (above the cylinder section) as I saw in a parts catalog picture. Is this right? A) Oil pressure is measured from the BOTTOM connection, of the head oil feed pipe, you will get a few more psi there as well. (If I took it from the banjo that's lower the reading would likely be higher.) a) Yes!

The 'hot' compression reading I'm getting is about 120 per cylinder. Do you know what this reading should be? a) On a 7.2 compression ratio, thats pretty good. Your cylinder bores might be in good condition, but lots of oil will mask worn piston rings and give you good compression readings. The proof would be in a long run, then the oil consumption may show you could have worn rings caused by 'ring-pumping'.

My clutch rod linkage system rattles a LOT. (sounding annoyingly like a BAD rod knopck) Is this normal/fixable? A) The rod system wears at the holes, most people weld up the edges of the holes in the linkage, then re-drill them, fitting new clevis pins. There should be a return spring at the very front, on the side of the sump. ...other problems the engine suffers from is advanced wear of the rocker-shaft and the rocker bushes, as well as the push-rod ends becoming loose. The camshaft lobes also wear out, giving a very noisy engine. The camshaft bearings are pretty crude as well, but easy to replace.

 

Changing a piston on a TD question

I removed the cylinder head on my TD to have it rebuilt by a local shop. (By local I mean it's in the same state, 120 miles away.) With the pistons exposed I discovered number four had a chunk along the edge missing. This left a hole though which one can see the top ring, or a piece of the ring. I'm not sure if the ring is still in one piece. The chunk was nowhere to be found, but evidently it was too big to fit between the piston and the non-recessed part of the head that overlaps the piston. There was a perfect pattern of this overlap pummeled into the top of the piston. This explains the terrible racket that occurred on a couple occasions that I attributed to a sticking valve. (I'm a rank novice gearhead.) Fortunately there seems to be very little damage to the cylinder wall, just a few faint scratches. Here's the question: Can I change the piston by dropping the pan without removing the engine from the car? The engine was overhauled a few thousand miles ago (just before a long period of storage) and from what I can see the other three pistons and cylinders are in good shape. Do pistons have to be changed in sets? They seem to be sold in sets. How can I tell if the connecting rod bearings are ok? I would normally leave this type of job to my mechanic, but I don't have access to a truck and trailer. Thanks in advance.

Yes, you can remove pistons and rods with the engine still in the car. 'Tain't easy but it can be done! (The difficulty is re-inserting the piston into the bore, past the crankshaft).

However, a word of caution - The breakage of the top land of the piston suggests to me that the rings were not gapped correctly. If the top ring on No.4 piston was overlooked, what's to say the other ones were done properly? So, if you are going to the trouble of removing one, go for them all and check that the ring gaps are correct.

My suggestion to you is to pull the engine, check the cylinders and do whatever is needed.

Install a NEW set of pistons, check the rods and everything else that moves. If you don't you are liable to destroy the whole engine

I have had my 52TD totally apart and put it back together. I just did a ring and rod bearing replacement on my 77MGB without removing the engine. That was not an easy task. It was exceptionally difficult to keep from soiling the crank journals. And---- that's an engine where the pistons can come out of the top of the cylinders! You may not be aware of the fact that the TD's rods are larger than the cylinder bore and must be inserted/removed from the bottom. It's much easier with the engine upside down on a bench or stand.

Part2

As several list members advised, I was able to remove the piston and rod from the bottom past the crank. I found this had to be done on the camshaft side of the engine and it's a bit tricky. The crank rotation, piston and rod all had to be manipulated in order to "sneak" the assembly out. Once out I could not get a socket to go over the wrist pin clamp bolt because it's so close to the rod. Horst Schach in The Complete MG TD Restoration Manual suggest using an open end wrench, but my wrench couldn't get a good enough grip on the bolt and it started to round off the head. So next I tried grinding down the outside diameter of my 1/4 W socket as far as possible, but it still wouldn't fit. I then used the flat side of my Dremel cutting wheel to grind down the ridge on the rod adjacent to the bolt head. This provided just enough clearance for my modified socket to fit over the bolt head. This did the trick and I don't believe I removed enough metal to cause any balance problems (I hope).

Now does the new piston go in from the top or the bottom? I can envision the piston going in from the top and pushed down just far enough to allow the rod and wrist pin to be attached from the bottom. Now that I can get my socket on the pinch bolt, I could tighten it with an extension. Or should the rod and piston be assembled and then installed from the bottom the same way they came out? If done from the bottom, can you get a ring compressor in there past the crank? If not, can one compress the rings with ones hands?

By the way, the shop manual seems adamant about the rods being assembled with the pinch bolts on the right hand side of the engine. Naturally the DPO had them in the other way. Should I turn all the connecting rods around the right way or leave them alone?

Thanks for all the advise. You should see how badly the old piston is beat up. No matter how I get the new piston in, it's got to be a big improvement.

I am pretty certain that the piston went in from the bottom at the factory, probably pre-connected to the rod. But, with the crankshaft in place you're going to have a very difficult time getting a ring compressor in there and getting the piston to enter the cylinder. I gave up on the challenge, removed the piston from the rod and pushed piston in from the top. In the original casting, there was probably some chamfering that made piston insertion easier. Once an engine is bored, though, that chamfer is gone. Somewhere I read that rods being in backward is a bad thing, and an explanation for it. Of course, I forget where any why, but a dim memory tells me that it had to do with the oil squirting out of the drillings and lubricating wrist pin or piston or cylinder wall.... I would turn them around. That, of course, brings up the further problem that you may not know if the front of the piston is facing the front of the engine. Is the head still off? Can you see any markings on the piston tops? It could be that he is 180 degrees out with both piston and rod, so all you would have to do would be to remove bearing caps and rotate the rod. That sure would be nice, and easy. And unlikely, according to Mr. Murphy, discoverer of Murphy's Law.

Probably pre-connected to the rod. MUST be pre-connected to the rod, upper pinch bolt must be torqued to 33 to 34 ft-lbs or the top bolt will stretch and you have a danger of rod breaking at the top. Never hold the rod while torquing the pinch bolt as you will bend the rod. Hold the wrist pin, two buttons in the wrist pin holes and a vice are required before you torque the pinch bolt. But, with the crankshaft in place you're going to have a very difficult time getting a ring compressor in there and getting the piston to enter the cylinder. You can fit the rings with a jubilee hose clamp or your fingers, not easy, but possible. I gave up on the challenge, removed the piston from the rod and pushed piston in from the top. OK, but how did you connect the rod and tighten the upper rod bolt?

In the original casting, there was probably some chamfering that made piston insertion easier. Once an engine is bored, though, that chamfer is gone. Agreed, the chamfer is gone at about +0.060" bore.

Somewhere I read that rods being in backward is a bad thing, and an explanation for it. Of course, I forget where any why, but a dim memory tells me that it had to do with the oil squirting out of the drillings and lubricating wrist pin or piston or cylinder wall.... Cylinder walls need to be lubricated on the trust face of the piston, this is away from the camshaft, same side as the pinch bolt.

I would turn them around. I agree, turn the pistons/rods around so they are inserted correctly. That, of course, brings up the further problem that you may not know if the front of the piston is facing the front of the engine. Check it out and correct the problem.

I use a 13 mm socket and grind through one side on an angle till it fits over the pinch bolt head. You need to tap the socket on and it works.

The Dremel cutting was a very dumb thing to do. The rods are already suspect in the pinch bolt area, you have just made them worse.

No not balance problems , but what about rod stress risers and strength?? I can't believe you did this! BTW, in future, a much better rod bolt is a high strength socket head cap screw, 8.0 x 1.0 x 30 mm long. Piece of cake to now get an Allen wrench on the pinch bolt and torque to 33 to 34 ft-lbs. Now does the new piston go in from the top or the bottom? Bottom, tighten rod bolt in a vice first.

Tightening it with an extension will never work.

Probably not, I have used a jubilee hose clamp for installing rod and piston.

If not, can one compress the rings with ones hands? Yes, it will work.

Well maybe it's got to be a big improvement, but not if you proceed with inserting the piston from the top and installing the rod from the bottom. Guarantee if you do not torque the pinch bolt you will have a rod problem. That could lead to BIG expensive noises.

I have read your note regarding the correct way round for pistons to be assembled in the XPAG block and would offer the following advice.

The conrods must be assembled correctly with the gudgeon pin clamp bolt on the right hand side of the engine (ie on the same side as the starter motor ). The main reason for this is lubrication. If you examine the conrod you will notice a small hole drilled on an angle into the bearing and this is intended to spray oil up inside the cylinder bore, getting its oil supply under pressure from the main bearing when the angled drilling in the crank journal lines up with this drilled hole. The ideal time to spray the oil on the cylinder bore is is when the piston is at the top of its stroke maximum bore wall exposed ) and this will only occur when all is assembled correctly. If your conrods are the wrong way round you may end up with fairly rapid cylinder wear or seizure.

Regarding the correct way round for the pistons, as I understand it , where it does not matter which way round the piston goes it is not marked with a direction indicator. When it does matter ( ie where the piston has a split skirt or some other feature ) the piston is usually marked FRONT. If there is any doubt consult the manufacturer or supplier.

LISTEN. Put 'em in from the bottom after torqueing the clamp bolt. If you can find another rod to replace the "modified-by-Dremel" one, it would be a really good idea to do so, now. Broken rod=demolished block--not good. The hose-clamp trick works as a ring compressor--I've done it, from the bottom, in the car, with crank in place. It's a b____h, but can be done with patience. MUST have rods and pistons in right way 'round, or expensive noises are only a question of time!!

The engine was on a stand, hence accessible at all points, else I don't think it would ever have been done sucessfully. I pushed the piston in from the top, using a regular ring compressor, slid it to the bottom of the cylinder with the skirt out far enough for the pin to slip out of the piston. Then placed the con rod, inserted the piston, put a piece of bar stock through the piston pin to hold it, and torqued up with an unusual thiin-wall socket. I really admire your idea of the allen-head pinch bolt. It would have been a lot easier to find four of them than to root around all over the county searching for a socket wrench that would fit.

Put the piston with rod in from the bottom. It will go up far enough to the top to put the rings on with a compressor, slowly tap back down and then connect the rod bearings and cap. Changed several that way with engine in car and that's how I've done with engine rebuild.

How right you are! If the pistons go in from the top, that really is all - the bores are too small for the rods to go in that way.

If you really want to assemble an XPAG engine so that it will actually work, the pistons and rods have to go in from the bottom.

When I was in college in the 50's, I had a TD with a collapsed piston.....could only afford rings, and they would last almost a year before they began to break up. I then put the car up on a homemade hoist and pulled the head and pan, took the rod and piston out from below, removed the broken rings, shoved it up through the bore, put on the new rings, used a hose clamp to compress them and carefully pushed the piston back down into its bore and connected the rod to the crank.....

Having just completed the task I can assure you that it is a real knuckle scraper to compress the rings when reinstalling the pistons from beneath but I don't see how you could do it any other way. I used small blade screwdrivers and gently, tenderly, gingerly was able to compress the rings and reinstall the piston from below. I don't know how you could install them from the top and reconnect the wrist pin without inserting the piston so far down that the rings would unseat anyway.

Am I to understand that you've done this so far without removing the head? I sure do think that your life would be easier if the took it off. Since you got it out that way, it says that the piston w/rod can be installed around the crankshaft. I think that I recall a slight chamfer at the bottom of the bore when I was inserting my pistons. I had a very short ring compressor that I was able to use from the bottom end. It would be worth your while to make certain that the pistons are aimed the right way, i.e., front toward the front, as someone else already suggested. I think you are correct in that the orientation is necessary for proper oiling.

Part 3

Now that I've pulled the bad +.020 piston, how can I check the bore to make sure the replacement needs to be +.020? I can't assume the DPO did anything right on this car. Would a feeler gauge with the old piston in the cylinder tell me anything? Does honing make a significant difference on the cylinder diameter? In other words, should the honing be done before the pistons are ordered?

You need to examine the cylinder bore carefully for any marks caused by the previous problem. If it looks OK then I would think a new +020 piston with new ring