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Last year my wife Ann decided she wanted a ‘proper car’ of her own as
she was fed up with my uncomfortable and ‘weird’ collection of
vehicles. Her words not mine!
There was very little debate when she said that she would like to own a Z
Varitone like the one we had when we were married in the late 1960’s.
After a frustrating search looking at totally rotten cars advertised as
beautiful and restored, we found a Varitone just 30 miles away that had
been used every day to transport its owner to and from work.
The body has all the usual rusty areas however inspection revealed
that all the structural locations had been properly repaired some years
earlier and had stood the test of time.
We drove the car home and spent several weekends last summer enjoying our
re-acquaintance with a car we had both had great affection for ‘first
time around’.
Of special note was a fantastic weekend with many other Z’s at Wooton
Rivers when we discovered just what a friendly and helpful crowd the
Magnette Register is! We had
some anxiety prior to going to this event, as we felt sure that everyone
would cast scorn on our scruffy Z. Instead
we were welcomed enthusiastically by everyone and it became apparent that
sensibly modifying these cars is not frowned upon on, in fact there is
great enthusiasm for making changes that make a good car even better in
order that it can be used even more regularly.
This open-minded and refreshing lack of snobbery set me thinking.
Ann has been brought up on modern all-Synchromesh gearboxes.
The lack of Synchro on first and a weak Synchro on second was not
going to make it easy for her. Up
to this point, all the driving of ‘her car’ had been done by me with
her in the passenger seat.
Re-familiarising myself with the car 32 years on made me realise that the
Z is very low geared compared with modern cars.
Some of our longer journeys had me thinking that an overdrive from
a ‘B’ would be of benefit. My
lack of enthusiasm for this was the obvious major surgery that would be
required on the tunnel.
Then a few months ago I visited Sandown MG spares day and came
across a small stand offering Sierra 5 speed gearbox conversations for the
MGA. The stand was operated
by a company called Hi-Gear Engineering and a brief chat with Director
Peter Gamble soon had me thinking that this was a better solution to both
the lack of Synchromesh and the low overall gearing problem.
A couple of subsequent phone calls to Peter Gamble had also put me in
touch with a Magnette owner in Hull who had done this and with the
information gained from him and the very helpful information from Peter,
we decided to convert Ann’s car. The MGA kit would need some
modification and Peter kindly arranged for a new cast aluminium bell
housing to be supplied but not drilled for the MGA clutch slave cylinder.
We had already established that an MGA slave cylinder would be
unsuitable for the Magnette as it does not provide enough clutch travel
when used with a Magnette master cylinder.
The parts supplied were, an un-drilled bell housing, a machined
aluminium clutch release lever pivot with fixing bolts, an MGA clutch
release lever with pivot bolt, a gasket to go between the bell housing and
the ford gearbox, an extended spigot bush (the same as the MGA
conversion), a Ford gearbox rear mount, an MGA clutch plate and a speedo
cable with a Ford gearbox end, and an MG speedo end.
In addition Peter routinely supplied various nuts and bolts
including a full set to mount the bell housing to the Magnette engine and
the bolts to mount the bell housing to the Ford gearbox.
Peter also agreed that when I could give the dimensions, he would
make a prop shaft to the correct length and supply a gear stick assembly
that would position the gear stick in the correct place to appear central
in the Magnette turret. These
obviously could only be supplied when I supplied the information.
In speaking to the Magnette owner in Hull, he told me the problems he had
encountered and these were:
1.
The Ford gearbox could not go into the tunnel recess without the
angling down of
the engine gearbox assembly towards to rear.
2.
This in turn meant that the prop shaft would not clear the
crosspiece located midway along the transmission tunnel (presumably to
contain the prop shaft if the front UJ ever failed).
As a result he had removed the crosspiece and made up a new lower
crosspiece.
3.
Two other problems had resulted.
One had been that the gear stick was positioned further back and
this meant moving the turret back so that the hand brake fouled against
its rear face. The final one
was that the throttle linkage, which attaches to the bulkhead had to be
modified because of the new angle with which the motor sat in the car.
Armed
with this information, this is what happened!
We removed the original engine / gearbox as per
the workshop manual. The
gearbox was
separated from the engine and the clutch plate taken out.
The original spigot bearing was then removed from the centre
of the flywheel.
Theoretically this can be hydraulically pushed out by filling the bearing
with grease and pushing a spare main shaft in, (which we did not have) so
a hacksaw blade was used to cut through the spigot bearing after which it
was easy to just hook it out.
The spigot-bearing hole was cleaned out and the extended spigot bearing
supplied by Hi-Gear was inserted with bearing fit lock tight, (also
supplied).
The MGA clutch plate was then reassembled on to the flywheel using a
standard Magnette pressure plate.
Turning to the gearbox, the Ford bell housing was removed (four bolts)
along with the clutch release mechanism and gasket.
These were discarded. We
then removed the four bolts on the front of the gearbox that hold the
clutch release bearing guide sleeve.
The sleeve was cut off leaving just one centimetre of sleeve
protruding from the base before cleaning and refitting it to the front
face of the gearbox.
The Sierra gearbox mounting was attached to the rear gearbox mounting
point by its single bolt fixing.
The MGA clutch operating arm and thrust race were then fitted before trial
mounting the gearbox on to the engine.
The clutch slave cylinder was removed from the Magnette gearbox and
using an MGA push rod, was positioned on the bell housing before drilling
and tapping the bell housing and mounting.
The gearbox was removed again and our attention turned to the car itself.
We were keen to overcome the problems encountered by the Hull owner and so
we looked carefully at the tunnel area.
This is the bit you are going to hate!
Using a reasonable size hammer, we re-profiled the tunnel slightly by
folding the front top edge horizontal and then flattening out the first
two re-inforcing pressings on the top of the tunnel.
These are transverse pressings down into the transmission tunnel
and by flattening them, we created greater space above the gearbox.
It sounds brutal but the change is very small and there is
absolutely no way you can see this change once carpet is inserted inside
the car.
The result of this ‘brutality’ is that the gearbox (when we
came to fit it) went up far enough to eliminate the throttle linkage
problem, prop shaft fouling problem and we did not even have to alter the
exhaust.
Before the gearbox could be mounted, it was
necessary to relocate the clutch hydraulic flexible pipe by removing the
original bracket from the rear bulkhead and locating it on the off side
front chassis extension below the steering column.
This allowed for a new 30-inch steel pipe to link the clutch slave
flexible to the master cylinder. The
original pipe is too short!
At this point we removed the gearbox cross member from the original
Magnette gearbox. For those
of you who are familiar with it, it has two ears on which the rubber
blocks are mounted. We
removed both these ears (one is bolted in and one is spot welded in).
The Magnette cross member was then offered up to the Ford rear gearbox
mounting and using the hole left from the bolted on ear as the location
for one side, the cross member was drilled on the other side to allow a
second bolt to the Ford mounting. This
resulted in the standard Magnette cross member now being fitted to the
rear of the Ford box.
The cross member needed the front flange bending slightly to provide
adequate clearance to the gearbox case.
We now refitted the engine into the car on the front mountings and
let it rest on the front cross member.
From underneath the car, we guided the Ford gearbox into place and
bolted it on to the engine. We
then carefully lifted the rear of the gearbox and to our amazement found
that the four rear cross member mounting holes lined up precisely with
four hexagon screws either side of the tunnel and just behind the original
mounting screw holes. We
unscrewed these screws, lifted the cross member in place and using some
longer screws, located the cross member into the four tapped holes we
found.
It was not possible to raise the gearbox all the way, as the rear
of the gear stick turret was too far back to appear through the original
gear stick hole in the body. We
noted the clearance required and cut the gear stick aperture (almost 2
inches) further back towards the handbrake.
We then raised the gearbox again until it just touched the tunnel.
At this point we noted the gap between cross member and body.
We then spaced the cross member down to ensure there was clearance
all around the gearbox. A
safe clearance was achieved with 5/8” of spacer between the rear cross
member and the body.
We measured the prop shaft length required and Hi-Gear produced a new prop
shaft of the correct length with a Ford front end and a Magnette rear end.
We installed this in position.
Even with the rear wheels hanging un-supported, the prop shaft just
cleared the tunnel bridge cross piece.
We noted that the prop shaft was not central in the tunnel and
centering it we would gain even more clearance.
To achieve this the rear cross member was removed and the Ford
mounting to cross member bolt holes were slightly elongated thus allowing
the box to be moved over slightly and hence centre the prop shaft.
This distance required to centre was only 1/8”.
As we now had reasonable clearance in the worst possible condition e.g.
the wheels hanging down, we knew there was no danger of the prop shaft
touching. When we measured
the clearance with the wheels on the ground, there was well over half an
inch. We had solved the first
problem! The crosspiece had
been left in place and we had good clearance.
Next we connected up the exhaust and to our surprise and pleasure, found
that it fitted and sealed without any modification.
The angle by which the engine had changed was so slight that the
joints could accommodate it. (Another
possible problem solved).
The clutch slave was connected to the flexible and the clutch bled
normally. The throttle was
connected up and we found it required no modification.
(Problem solved).
We did find that the clearance between the bell housing and steering
column was minute and we were unhappy that under extremes of engine
movement it might touch. We
easily solved this by filing the bell housing by the starter motor
extension so that it exactly matched the profile of the rear engine plate
and then bevelling the new profile. This
is a very simple task but only if you do it before you put the engine and
gearbox into the car!
Turning to the interior, we were determined that the handbrake should
operate normally. We
discovered that the turret could be mounted so that its rear face just
cleared the rear of the gearbox and by doing so, left sufficient space for
a thumb on the handbrake button even with the handbrake in the fully down
position. This however
presented two minor problems, the first one was that it left an aperture
in front of the turret because it was now moved rearwards and secondly the
Ford gear stick could not be used at it would be positioned too far to the
off side and to the rear to come through to the turret centre.
A small piece of sheet metal was cut and riveted to the tunnel and solved
the problem of the gap in front of the turret.
A quick sketch and a fax to Hi-Gear resulted in Peter (overnight)
making up a special stick that projected the Ford change forward and
towards the near side by the appropriate amount.
The stick now appeared through the very centre of the turret in its
new position. Problems
solved!
The Magnette speedo cable was removed and replaced by the one that Hi-Gear
had supplied and went in without modification.
The Ford box was filled with oil and the reversing light, switch was
connected to the existing loom. The
time to complete all this was (in actual time) 2˝ days.
What is it like to drive? No
clunks, bangs or jerkyness. The
gear change is, as you would expect from Ford Sierra, a delight.
The synchromesh cannot be beaten, no matter how fast you try to
change. The first three
ratios suit the car far better than the original first and second (it was
almost not worth using bottom gear on the original box).
The spacing of all the gears is much better and makes the driving
experience and the actual acceleration better.
(You can keep the car in the power band, as the ratios are closer).
My first run seemed however disappointing.
I took the car up to 40 miles per hour on the speedometer and the
engine still seemed busier than I had imagined in 5th.
Indeed I was expecting a big revs drop from 4th to 5th
as 5th is an overdrive. It’s
indirect at 0.8 to 1.
It was only after I returned from the initial run feeling that I still had
a gearing problem that I realised! The
speedometer had not yet been re-calibrated and therefore was reading low.
I had been travelling at an indicated 40 miles an hour and it did
not seem particularly fast but the engine note seemed similar to 40 miles
an hour in the past.
When I realised the speedo would be wrong, I asked Ann to go out in
her modern sports car (MX5) and I would follow her at constant distance. She
was to signal to me when she was doing a steady 30, then 40, then 50 miles
an hour. This she did.
When she was doing a steady 50, the Magnette was reading just 35
miles per hour.
I felt sure the car was not travelling that quickly and I
disbelieved her speedometer. I
therefore insisted that she went out and repeated the exercise with my own
car (a Saab). Surprise,
surprise, 50 miles per hour was 35 miles per hour on the Magnette.
No wonder the revs where higher than I thought at the indicated 40!
I still have not re-calibrated the speedometer, but what we have achieved
is an all synchromesh gearbox, much better intermediate ratios, a superb
gear change and a much less busy engine when cruising.
Ann’s Magnette was converted to 1622 cc before we got it, and has
no trouble pulling 5th (and in fact it is still responsive).
I cannot recommend too highly the efforts of Hi-Gear and Peter Gamble in
particular. The workmanship
on everything he does is of a very high standard and I have been pleased
to supply him with every measurement and a full set of step by step
specific instructions with photos.
Peter is now prepared to produce a comprehensive kit with the correct prop
shaft, gear stick and pre-drilled bell housing which will allow you (if
you wish) to have the same.
Our car is still scruffy, but it now has a gear change that Ann has
no difficulty with. Now where
is that disc brake conversion and a servo?!!
P.S. A fellow
Magnette owner Alan Slack has mirrored our conversion on a ZA (and
assisted me doing ours, thanks Alan!).
The only difference is, there are no extra mounting holes in the body for
the rear cross member. Alan
had to drill and bolt through on the ZA.
Otherwise the same things applied.
Mike Webster
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