Overwintering...

... your MGA in the UK 

Introduction

Maintaining your MGA during the winter in more recent years is not the problem that it was in the days when most owners would only tax their cars for the six months of summer: all MGAs are free of paying for road tax and, as such, can now be used all year round for the purposes of activating the moving parts and warming up the oil from time to time: this should be done as often as time and weather conditions permit which may vary from place to place in the UK.

Winter storage

The following procedures are recommended irrespective of whether or not the car is to run during the winter and assume that the car is garaged. One or two of the recommendations will not be possible if there is no electrical power available to the garage.

  1. Ensure the car is as dry as possible when it is driven into the garage for storage. The ideal situation is that the car should be given a good run beforehand to rid the car of moisture in the engine compartment and the exhaust system. Do not apply the handbrake during storage. Also ensure that the petrol tank is fairly full to minimise the amount of water absorbed during storage. Storing the car with little fuel in the tank is likely to lead to deposits which are difficult, if not impossible, to remove in the fuel lines without a major stripdown. Similarly ensure that the master cylinder is full to minimise any contamination in the clutch and brake lines.

  2. Give the car bodywork a good clean with a recommended cleanser and wax (eg Autoglym, Mer etc).

  3. Give all the chromework a rub over with a good quality cleanser. If there are some rust spots in the chrome, give them a careful wipe with a soft rag with WD 40 sprayed on it. Whilst this will not stop the spread of rust, it will slow it down! Spraying items that are difficult to clean with WD 40, such as wire wheels, will also help to maintain quality of the metalwork. Do not forget to clean the chrome in the cockpit eg instruments.

  4. Use a proprietary leather or vinyl cleaner on the seats and other cockpit items to reduce the effects of drying out.

  5. Spray WD 40 onto moving parts under the bonnet eg carburettor linkages.

  6. Make sure that items such as bonnet and boot hinges are well greased.

  7. Release the boot and bonnet mechanisms to improve air circulation around the car. Use of a car cover is optional: it can have benefits particularly if the garage is dusty but make sure that it is dry when fitted and that some air circulation can take place. Do not use a cover designed for exterior protection of a car ie a plastic - based one.

  8. Ensure that the coolant system contains adequate antifreeze if the interior of the garage is likely to drop below zero during the coldest periods of the winter.

  9. If possible, use heaters set to come on at temperatures just above zero and/or dehumidifiers if the garage is reasonably well sealed.

  10. Pump up the tyres to a pressure some 5-10 lbs/sq in above normal to prevent flat spotting during storage: an alternative is to jack the car up on axle stands to take the weight off the tyres but ensure that jacking points are used which keep the suspension compressed as it would be during normal running.

  11. Ensure that the batteries are kept in good charge: this is best achieved these days by use of an ‘intelligent’ battery charger which will trickle charge the battery once it is fully charged. It is a good idea to remove the batteries from the car then release the cell vents, check electrolyte levels and fill with distilled water if necessary before commencing any charging (unless a maintenance free battery is fitted). Always remove the earth terminal first. Wipe the top of the battery with cloth or kitchen paper. If your car is positive earth in accordance with the original specifications, then periodically clean the battery terminals with warm water and apply new vaseline or similar petroleum jelly to the terminals to minimise future corrosion (white deposits). Corrosion here is less of a problem if your car is negative earth which is quite likely to be the case if your car is an import from the US. Always disconnect the earth lead from the battery whenever the batteries remain in the car whilst it is not being used: this will also alleviate the tendency of terminals to corrode.

  12. Remove any items stored in the car, particularly metal objects in the boot, which may start to rust if any dampness occurs: tools are an obvious item.

  13. Fit the tonneau cover to the car when warm to ensure that it still connects to the fasteners: it may not fit when the ambient temperature is colder. It could also be wise to erect the hood to minimise creasing in the material.

  14. If there is a chance that mice and other rodents could infiltrate the car, then the introduction of a few mothballs will protect the upholstery and carpet from damage.

  15. A piece of plastic laid on the floor underneath the car will go a long way to protect the underneath of the car from damp rising through the concrete. This action is particularly sensible if the car is not to be accessed during the winter and the garage is likely to get very cold for periods of time.

  16. If the car is to be stored in an unheated garage all winter in an area where temperatures remain below freezing for much of the time, then it is wise to remove the sparkplugs and apply WD 40 or a light engine oil to the cylinders and turn the engine by hand to ensure the walls are coated: always refit the sparkplugs afterwards to form a reasonable seal. The application of tape to seal the exhaust and carburettor air intakes to minimise moisture ingress will also help under these conditions.

  17. If possible, as a minimum, the car should be started once a month and gears engaged to ensure that the clutch does not stick. This is a common problem with many MGAs particularly if there is some dampness in the garage. The action of just depressing the clutch pedal will assist here if it is difficult to start the car. Also move the car backwards and forwards a little to prevent the brake pads sticking to the discs. Operate the brake pedal at the same time to activate the hydraulic cylinders.

  18. Before embarking on the first long run after winter, it is a good idea to change the engine oil particularly if high speed cruising is envisaged: some will advocate that the oil should be changed before storage. All other servicing checks should be carried out in accordance with manual instructions and pay particular attention to all grease points.

  19. Remember that if fuel additives are being used in the petrol, then they must be replenished before starting the car after a period of inactivity as evaporation will have taken place.

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