MGCC

The T Series

Last month we brought you the first part of the "Motor Trader" Service data pamphlet, dealing with the engine and electrical systems of the well-loved TA. To round off this feature, we now cover the areas of transmission and chassis. It should be borne in mind that this information was aimed at the TA owner in 1938, and this should be taken into consideration for modern road usage.

TRANSMISSION
In early models rear flange of propeller shaft shroud is bolted behind heelboard of body, so that shroud cannot obviously be completely removed without lifting body. If both front and rear flanges of propeller shaft are disconnected and all details securing shroud removed, shroud can be moved over to one side enough to allow removal of box.
Remove starter motor, uncouple clutch operating rod at forward end, unbolt steering box and bracket from frame and remove exhaust pipe between manifold and silencer. Take weight of engine at the rear and remove four bolts holding gear to rear engine mounting rubbers. Remove clutch operating lever. Disconnecting clutch housing from flywheel housing and remove box.

TA IN DETAIL


CLUTCH
Spring centre plate with cork inserts, running in oil. 12 Coil springs between cover and pressure plates. Ball thrust race. Ball spigot bearing held in flywheel by retaining plate. Pressure plate driven by three dog pieces in flywheel registering with slots in plate. Cover plate secured to flywheel face by six bolts.
Access to clutch after removing gear box and clutch housing. To dismantle, undo flywheel bolts and remove complete pressure assembly. Driven plate held on three studs by single circlip. To dismantle pressure assembly, remove locking nut from hub, remove thrust race and separate pressure plate from cover plate.
Two adjustments only for clutch. Screw adjustment at bottom of pedal to give 1in. free travel at top. Set travel stop so that pedal arm comes against it just as clutch stops spinning.
GEAR BOX
Four forward and reserve. Top and third constant synchromesh with double helical gears. To dismantle, remove propeller shaft flange, marking its relation to primary shaft. Remove rear end cover and speedometer driven gear. Lift out ball race packing washer and draw out gears from back, in correct order.
Start with selector rods, taking care to pick up detents and locking balls as they are freed. Remove forks. Press down spring-loaded plunger and turn splined retaining plate at rear face of third speed double helical gear until gear is free to move on the mainshaft. Draw out mainshaft with its rear bearing and chip washer, lifting off each gear as freed.
Remove grub screw securing arbor of layshaft and draw arbor, allowing gear cluster to drop. Release and remove reverse arbor and pick off reverse cluster when freed. Remove clutch housing complete with front oil seal and lift out first motion shaft bearing packing washer. Remove circlip in front of ball bearing and press out assembly. Lift our layshaft cluster.
Striking dog for top and third synchromesh is retained on the sliding hub by six balls and springs set radially at 60° in the sliding hub. Hub can be pushed out from sliding dog with fair effort. To reassemble, fix balls and springs in hub and slide striking dog over, using six pieces of 0.015in. Steel shim 3/8in. wide. Enter hub in dog and fit one spring and ball in place. Push one piece of shim down between hub and striking dog, retaining ball in place. Repeat for remaining five balls, then push hub right home and pull out shims. Balls will click into central indentation. A special tool can be supplied to enable balls to be assembled into synchro unit, part no. T84.
In assembling the box, note to fit roller bearings and distance tube on lay arbor, lock reserve shaft and layshaft with grub screw, fit spring plunger into mainshaft, lock double helical third speed wheel by rotating loose plate until plunger engages, replace propeller shaft flange in original position on mainshaft of gear box.
REAR AXLE
Underslung with springs below. Axle lies above frame members with stirrup above. To remove, uncouple propeller shaft at rear flange. Disconnect handbrake cable and Lockheed pipes at either side of tee piece. Remove tee piece and drain off fluid.
Remove one brake back plate thus: Having removed wheel, unbolt and draw brake drum. Replace wheel nut on hub and draw out halfshaft, hitting ears of nut if necessary. Release tab washer and undo nut securing bearing. Draw bearing and housing. Remove brake shoes. Release and remove back plate.
Take out batteries and remove check straps. Draw halfshaft from the other side. Remove differential housing complete from front of axle. Disconnect springs from axle and withdraw axle through the wheel arches.
Axle is semi-floating, of banjo type, opening in front only. Halfshafts fixed in hubs and splined at inner ends. Drive assembly complete secured to casing by ten bolts. Crown wheel is to the near side. Complete assembly can be adjusted on bench. Pinion shaft carried on parallel rollers and thrust-journal bearing at forward end. Pinion housing cap bolted to housing with shims between. Adjustment of mesh by bolting up without shims and then reassembling with correct shimming to take up clearance between flange faces.
Differential of four bevel type in split housing. Crown wheel attached by eight bolts. Differential assembly with thrust journal bearings carried in cradles, with cap at each cradle. Caps should be tightened home to hold bearings securely, but not to pinch them.
If correct mesh is lost on dismantling, assemble drive gear so that inner edges of pinion and crown wheel form unbroken surface. Then check by marking such as red lead. When finally adjusted, crown and pinion should have between 0.007in. and 0.01in. clearance between teeth. Side adjustment of crown wheel by nuts at each side of differential casing. Crown wheel without pinion should spin freely without shake or tightness.
Inside rear wheel bearings is an oil seal. If oil reaches brake shoes this must be renewed. Remove bearing as mentioned. In replacing see that nut is quite tight and tab washer in place.
PROPELLER SHAFT
Open Hardy Spicer with needle roller bearings. When shaft is removed for any reason, see that it is replaced in same position on flanges. No lubrication is necessary unless joints are dismantled. Splines at forward end should be lubricated with gear oil every 500 miles. Access through hole in propeller shaft tunnel.
FRONT AXLE
H-section, reversed Elliot. Swivel pins cottered in axle ends. Plain bronze bushes, flanged; lower bush flanged at top with steel thrust washer below axle. Up and down play 0.004in. maximum. Swivel pin should be a tight press in bushes without using tools. It is essential that pins are a press fit in axle eye.
To remove axle, jack car so that wheels are just on the ground. Release front spring front pins after disconnecting brake pipes. Disconnect drag link at axle. Draw axle forward out of trunnions.
To dismantle hub, remove road wheel. On splined part of hub is a sunk steel plug which gives access to a split-pin locking castellated hub nut. Undo hub and draw off hub complete with bearings. Before removing inner bearing remove oil seal. On reassembling, bearings are pulled tight against distance piece with hub nut, but spin wheel to test for freedom. Steering joints on drag link are of ball and cup type. Assemble in correct order, namely, inner ball seat, ball, outer ball seat, spring, slotted plug and split-pin. To adjust, tighten plug fairly tight then slack back half a turn and pin securely.
When replacing front or rear road wheels see that male and female splines are perfectly clean. Smear with graphite grease and tighten fully with clouter. With M.G. wheel locking nuts one side of each lug is almost radial, the other tangential to the outside of the nut. To remove, hit radial face. In general with knock-off nuts, to undo turn nut in direction the wheel turns when going forward.
STEERING
Bishop cam. From lock to lock takes 1 1/8 turns, steering ratio 8:1. Bluemel spring wheel 17in. diameter. Lubrication by filler cap at top of box. Two adjustments are provided, but only one should be necessary - on rocker shaft. However, if end play develops in column it can be taken up by removing one or more shims from face end of cover. If gear is dismantled, see that same number of shims go back. With rocker shaft out, wheel should spin freely but without any up and down movement.
From time to time adjustment of mesh of the rocker shaft may be necessary. Conical peg on rocker arm fits into groove of cam.
To provide more intimate meshing, remove one or more shims from side cover plate so that plate, bearing against the crank of rocker shaft, forces peg in towards cam. To check adjustment, disconnect drag link. As shims are of varying thickness, differential assembly permits fine adjustment. Stiffness at the straight-ahead position is not permissible, but there need be no backlash in this position. Slight freedom is progressively provided as full lock is approached.
Drop arm fits on splines on extended rocker shaft, correct setting being marked on shaft end and drop arm boss. If marking is lost, fit lower end of drop arm to drag link, leaving upper end free. Wheels are jacked up. Turn steering wheel to full lock, indicated by its coming up solid against an internal stop. Note accurately number of turns required to reach other lock, then bring wheel back exactly half distance. See that reoad wheels are exactly straight ahead, then fit drop arm to rocker shaft.
To check this, turn wheel to full lock, either hand. Disconnect arm at drag link and see if wheels can be locked farther over. Repeat for other lock. There should be equal extra movement each side. If not, remove drop arm and set one spline back to suit and check again. If no serration will give free movement on both locks, look to front axle stops. Between inner face of drop arm and face of box is a felt oil seal. Do not omit.
To remove steering gear complete, remove toe board, wheel and baffle board. Disconnect steering column support bracket below scuttle. Remove bolts which secure steering column bracket to frame and draw forward.
SPRINGS
Front and rear springs on pins at forward ends and in trunnions at rear ends. Forwards ends of rear springs are one Silentblocs. Forward ends of front springs are bronze bushed. Rear spring centres 36in., front 2611/16in.
Adjustment for side play in trunnions is provided. If wear is slight, remove outer portion of trunnion roller and with a lathe or skillful filing, let down the split, inner, end of trunnion by an amount just less than end play previously present. To remove inner half spring must be removed. When replacing rollers see that new one slides freely without play on master leaf. A fine file or emery cloth will fix this.
SHOCK ABSORBERS
Luvax hydraulic double acting. Adjustment by unscrewing filler plug at top and turning slotted screw below. Turn right to stiffen effect. one flat at a time is sufficient. Shock absorbers must be adjusted equally on both sides. Top up every 10,000 miles with Luvax fluid and keep recuperator three-quarters full. A useful plan is to overfill and then extract as much as possible with a syringe. Connections at arms and axles require no attention.
BRAKES
Lockheed hydraulic in 9in. steel drums. See that operating push-rod has slight clearance as its seat in piston to allow piston to return fully. Also see that brake pedal is not fouling floorboards or mats. Lack of free movement prevents piston from uncovering by-pass port, thus interfering with compensating action. See that reservoir, incorporated with master cylinder, is topped up to avoid admission of air into the system.
If pedal is spongy, there is air in the system and lines must be bled. See service instructions. To compensate for wear on linings see back plate. Here at each side is a hexagon nut. At inner face is a snail plate bearing against a pin on the shoe. Turning the nut outwards causes snail plate to force shoe out towards drum. Turn until shoe is solid against drum, then turn back until wheel is just free. One complete turn on nut takes up all permissible wear and only a slight turn should be necessary. Repeat for the other shoe and all brakes in turn, testing for freedom afterwards.
FRAME
Channel section, upswept over front axle and straight to the rear, passing under the rear axle. Tube stiffens dumb irons. Front cross-member carries radiator. Fabricated brackets form support for engine. Central cross-member supports gear box on fabricated brackets. Tubular cross-members at rear spring anchorages. Twin battery cradles on frame forward of rear axle.
Frame may be checked for wringing by straight edges, for lozenging by measuring diagonals from off side front spring pin to near side rear spring pin and vice versa. Permissible variation is 1/4in. Centre of front spring pin is 2 3/16in. above lower face of frame side-member.
TYRES AND WHEELS
Dunlop wore knock-on racing type, 19in. x 2.50 well-base for 19 x 4.50 tyres. Pressure, 24lbs. front, 26lbs. rear.

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