MG
The Classic Marque

I have been reading the post with interest as I am one of the many that think electrical is basically magic! I pose the question.... If the generator has not been polarized when the system was reconnected, would it cause the same sort of symptoms? I know it says that his system is charging, but could it charge without being polarized?

That explains it, Ed. Next question is what to do about it. I thought that Jeff (LBCarCo) sells Moss stuff. Are those what Moss is selling now for warning lights? Bud

Hello Gerard. I have only see two seats that needed to be redone out of about thirty pumps I have rebuilt and both of them had a crack in the lip which I had to grind out. The seat is available from Moss, I can get the number for you if you need it. Or you can get it from Doug Pelton of "From the frame up" he deals in TC but the seats are the same. I'm doing 4 pumps for him right now.

B...

Chris-
As James said. Different distributor means all specs are irrelevant. Remove breaker plate, find the number stamped on the advance weights - it could be anything from about 3 to 21, depending on what it came from. That is distributor advance; multiple by two for crankshaft advance. That plus your static is total advance. Around 30deg is safe, more might be better but watch it. Since you h...

Dave-
Be careful with new oil pumps; the repros frequently have issues with casting flash blocking half the passages. Recent discussion on this either here or on MGExperience>Motorsports board. I've also found many new pumps to be out of spec for end clearance on rotors by significant amounts (up to .020", on a spec of .005 max). I frequently reuse old pumps after checking, possibly reworkin...

I have a TF and the bulb arrangement is different from yours. From my experience this is not a grounding problem. The system works by balancing the current from the battery with the output of the dynamo. When the dynamo generates enough current the light goes out.

I now that the control box looks like a magic box but if you follow the instructions in the WSM regarding the cleaning and setti...

AJ, see my last 3 posts above yours (must have crossed in the mail)...what do you think?

I too have suffered this problem.

When the dynamo is spun up the voltage increases at Terminal F BALANCING the current flowing through the bulb from the battery at Terminal A or is it A1. This balancing act makes the light go out.

I traced my problem down to incorrectly set and corroded points in the control box. I would put a bet on your control box being the cause of this problem....

Just change a few more bits...

FRM

I used Champion N5 plugs on a 1098 engine once (in the 80s) and burnt the electrodes... However N9Ys worked fine.

I'd use NGK BPR6ES plugs as suggested by Bob...

JB